Wednesday, July 13, 2011 -- Day 43 – Bleak Hey Nook to Badger Fields Farm (on a high ridge NW of Hebden Bridge) – 18 miles

Upon asking the proprietor of the B&B about the derivation of the name Bleak Hey Nook, he stated that bleak was historically the spelling of the word black. Over time, the meaning of bleak has evolved to mean dark or foreboding. So although the area was not bleak, as we know it, as a color the word describes the surrounding rocks and heather. Indeed, the peat, and the water flowing through it, could be black in color.

Last night’s dinner and today’s breakfast were in the company of two very nice couples, ¾ of which were retired secondary school teachers. They are avid walkers, and are in the throes of completing the Pennine Way, north to south. I am walking in the opposite direction, so we bade our good-byes after breakfast, and I headed off.

Finally on the Pennine Way

Shortly after climbing a steep hill to join the Pennine Way, I encountered James, who is also walking the PW south to north. We chatted a while, and finally set off on our own individual paces, passing each other several times during the day. Also walking in my direction were three ladies, Jan, Jenny and Elaine, who happen to be staying at the same B&B tonight as I am. I also encountered Erik, from the Netherlands, Steve and Peter, both Brits. All of us kept passing and re-passing each other all day, as our paces differed and our breaks/lunch times differed. I suspect that the ebb and flow will continue over the next few days as we are all headed in the same direction. This is a phenomenon which I had not previously experienced on either the Southwest Coast Path or Offa’s Dyke.

Today’s route generally followed a well-signed track over the high moorlands. In boggy places, flagstone has been laid both to improve the footing and reduce the erosion from the foot traffic.


Master chef Brian



At one point the path crossed the busy A640 highway where Brian has set up his cooking trailer and serves coffee and meals to truckers. In California, we would refer to the concession as a “roach wagon,” but Brian’s set-up is spotlessly clean. That his food is good is evidenced by the repeat customers who stop. I failed to ask Brian how long he has been serving food at that place, but I think he’s become a fixture. Had I not just had breakfast, his bacon sandwich looked superb.

Name this car

Does anybody recognize the make and year of the restored vehicle parked near Brian’s trailer?  I know it's not a 1972 VW bus.

Steve and Eric near Stoodley Pike

At Stoodley Pike, a point which towers over the village of Hebden Bridge, a huge monument was built to commemorate the victory over Napoleon at Waterloo. While it is possible to climb the tower to the top, there is no lighting, and none of our party chose to risk a fall on the dark, circular staircase.

I was supposed to have ordered dinner at our B&B, but I neglected to do so. Fortunately for me, the three ladies who are also staying here did order dinner, so it was no problem for Miriam, the hostess, to cook one extra meal. The same thing happened yesterday at Bleak Hey Nook, where I had not ordered dinner, but my companions had. I’m glad that the Brits are looking after my nutrition, because if it were left to me, I would end up with bread and jam. Just in case Dr. George and Lady Ann are reading this, please be advised that I would like dinner. Oh, and for the full cooked breakfast, I don’t take black pudding or fried bread.

No WiFi tonight, so this won’t get posted until some future date.

Would you eat this guy?

© 2011 Ken Klug