Walk completed August 28, 2011

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Day 48 – Monday, July 18, 2011, Hawes to Keld – 14 miles

It was warm and dry when I awoke, but that was inside the hotel. Outside, the sky was overcast with low clouds. Today’s route started with a three-hour ascent of the Great Shunner Fell – into the very clouds which caused the overcast below. The recent rains had covered portions of the trail with puddles three or more inches deep. Navigating around the puddles increased the risk of sinking in a bog.

Holding Erik's note at Shunner Fell Summit
At the summit, an X-shaped wall with benches had been constructed to provide a windbreak on cold, windy, wet days like today, and James, Alec and I hunkered down there for lunch. Halfway through lunch, I discovered a note Erik had placed under a stone about an hour earlier:           
“Well, guys, wasn’t that fun going uphill. The mist closing in at one moment, spooky. Thought I might see you in the tearoom in Thwaite.

Shunner Fell summit cairn
The descent was somewhat less taxing, primarily because the boggiest areas were paved by flagstones, but also because the ridge we had crossed now shielded us from the worst of the wind and rain. The clouds dissipated, and Swaledale opened up below us.

Upon reaching Thwaite, we stopped for coffee at the tea room where Erik was still waiting. It was only 2:00, and the sun was now shining – the first time in days.  I was staying in Thwaite, but James and Alec were staying in Keld – three miles farther. Erik was staying at Tan Hill – four miles beyond Keld. I had initially discussed plans with James for me to meet him and Alec at Keld tomorrow, and for all three of us to continue to Bowes – twelve miles from Keld. But today was such a beautiful afternoon, I had a better idea.

View towards Thwaite
I checked into my room, dropped my pack and joined the others for the three mile walk to Keld on the Pennine Way. Upon reaching Keld, we said our final goodbyes to Erik. Then I walked back to Thwaite, by a different, more direct, route. My additional five miles today without a pack will be rewarded tomorrow, but only if I can find somebody to drive me to Keld in the morning. There is no taxi or bus service.

Walk to Keld
Even if I have to walk those three miles again, walking the five miles in sunny weather without a pack was a real treat. Maybe I’m getting soft, but I like walking without a pack.


Thanks to those who offered answers to the name the car puzzle. I’m not going to divulge the answer, but you can find out yourself by double clicking on the picture of the car and opening it in a separate window. Then you can enlarge the picture. The answer appears above the car’s radiator. Is that what you did, Larry?

© 2011 Ken Klug


  1. That cairn is at least as nice as the one in Sunriver, they need to add a flag on the top! Soooooo green, love it.

  2. I don't know about Larry, Ken, but I immediately recognized the car as a Singer Vogue by the three screws which attach the back license plate bezel to the capsidolic enteratum. But, in view of Larry's input,I confirmed the matter by enlarging the picture and reading the badge.