Day 74, Saturday, August 13, 2011 – Kinlochleven to Fort William, 14 miles



Keith, Amanda and Jason

 “Another sheety day,” thought the explorer to himself as he observed the rain falling in sheets outside the breakfast room window of his B&B. Yet with undaunted courage he packed up his gear and ventured into the storm. Surprisingly, the rain soon stopped temporarily, to be replaced by swarming midges looking for their breakfast. But the highly experienced explorer had anticipated the onslaught, and had doused himself with the Skin-so-soft Justine had given him at Byrness.

The trail ascended steeply out of Kinlochleven, and into the fog which hung over the hilltops. Occasionally, the fog on the distant hills made for interesting scenery, but more often it obscured the scenery.  Further ascent brought increasing rain and wind, which chased the midges away. Fortunately, the trail was in good condition – well graveled and able to disperse most of the water flowing across it. That made for good footing and a relatively quick speed.

Hazel and Kate

About 2:30, sunlight actually poked through the clouds, and started dancing on the adjacent hills. But by then, I had nearly reached Fort William, so the photo ops had pretty much passed by, with the exception of meeting Hazel and Kate, two ladies completing the West Highland Way.

Fort William

Fort William marks the end of the West Highland Way, and the start of the Great Glen Way, which follows the Caledonian Canal and Loch Ness to Inverness. The pins on the Google map make it appear that I’m farther north than I am. In reality, I’ve covered barely 950 miles, and still have almost 250 miles to go. Two hundred fifty miles is a long way, and I expect it to take me another 16 days to walk that far. Who knows what further adventures await? I hear that if the poor weather holds, I’ll have a good chance to see the Loch Ness monster. I’ll try to get a good picture in the rain.

Ben Nevis hidden by cloud

© 2011 Ken Klug

Day 73 – Rannoch Moor (Kingshouse) to Kinlochleven, 9 miles

Today was another dark, gloomy day, and the forecast afternoon rain has just started falling.  Because of today's short walk, I beat the rain. This morning's views into Glen Coe and the surrounding mountains were spectacular in the low light conditions, and one can only imagine how the addition of sunshine would have enhanced the scenery.

Despite the gloomy day, everybody I met was cheerful. Today is the penultimate walking day for almost everyone. The West Highland Way terminates at Fort William, tomorrow’s destination for most of the walkers. I still have two more weeks to go, and if I keep to my schedule, I’ll arrive at John O’Groats on Sunday, August 28. There’s still a lot of distance to cover, more people to meet, and new friends to make, so I’m looking forward to the next two weeks more than I’m looking forward to arriving at JOG.

Jaquie and Davie

As I was leaving Kingshouse this morning, I encountered Davie and Jaquie again. I first met them at the Beech Tree Inn, shortly after I joined the WHW from Strathblane.  We chatted again outside of Inveroran yesterday. Today I remembered to take their picture.

Mandy and Heather
above Devil's Staircase

I also remembered to take a picture of Mandy and Heather. They and I have been passing each other multiple times since I first encountered them and their young sons on the trail last Saturday as we all headed for Drymen. Their sons left the walk, as planned, a few days ago, but Mandy and Heather continued on and will finish tomorrow at Fort William.

Sue

Walkers weren’t the only ones smiling in the gloom. As I neared Kinlochleven, I met a mountain biker, Sue. Sue is a friend of Andy Robinson, the author of the guidebook I’ve been following, and she mentioned that her husband joined Andy on some legs of the walk as Andy was researching his book.

I can’t believe how this walk just keeps getting better and better, gloomy days notwithstanding.


© 2011 Ken Klug

Day 72 – Bridge of Orchy to Rannoch Moor (Kingshouse) – 11 miles

Once again, it rained all night. The rain stopped mid-morning, and although the sky had a gloomy overcast and threatened rain, the rain never returned.

Thirty-six hours of continuous rainfall swelled the rivers to their capacity. Some campers near the Inveroran Hotel had a scare, and had to relocate their campsites at 1:00 am when the river rose four feet overnight – and that after it had already risen to near capacity during the day.

The dark sky muted the colors of the surrounding hills, creating an ominous feeling of gloom across the moor. White cascades streaked the steep hillsides, in bright contrast to their darkened surroundings. Heavily flowing rivers displayed a calm that belied their force. This was a day to be enjoyed by becoming a part of the surroundings, by listening to the wind and water, feeling the movement of the air, focusing on the subtle shadings of green and black.

I was spellbound, and did not converse with anybody, lest I break the spell. Rannoch Moor is a beautiful, eerie place.

Mark and Gretchen

Once I left the moor and reached the A82 highway, the spell was broken, so of course I immediately struck up a conversation with the first folks I met. Mark and Gretchen, from Virginia, are cycling around Scotland, having just circumnavigated Ireland, and are eventually headed to Rome. They are probably going through tires (oops… I mean tyres – I forgot where I am) faster than I’m going through boots.

Speaking of boots, I’ve kicked mine off, and am now enjoying a pint of ale. I’ll defer the scotch until after dinner.

.


© 2011 Ken Klug

Day 71 – Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy, 7 miles

Joyce and Kenny

I shared last night's B&B with the three dancers of Rowardennan, along with Joyce who is walking the WHW with them, and Kenny, Joyce's husband.  I've previously mentioned how the ebb and flow of walkers increases the enjoyment of the WHW, because everyone seems like long-time friends over just a few days.  Kenny isn't walking, but rather is serving as luggage transporter and shuttle service as Anne, Becky, Elliot and Joyce walk together.  But I also keep on bumping into Kenny, and he's also become like a long-time friend -- and not just because he keeps buying me drinks.  Like most of the Scots I've met, he's just a nice guy.  I hope I keep bumping into him, because I owe him a few drinks.

Inclement weather

Torrential rains fell all during the night, and were still falling during breakfast. Being a highly experienced outdoorsman, I know how to deal with inclement weather. I stayed at the B&B as long as possible, and then went to a local coffee shop, where I nursed a cappuccino for 90 minutes waiting for the rain to stop. I could afford to wait out the rain, because today is a forced rest day, with only a short walk between accommodations.

Bridge of Orchy Hotel

I had tried to obtain accommodation tonight at Kings House, a hotel in the middle of Rannoch Moor and 18 miles from Tyndrum, but it was full tonight. A room is available tomorrow at Kings House, so I decided to stay tonight at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel – about halfway to Kings House, and stay there tomorrow.



Burn in spate

Wait as I might, the rain never let up, and at 11:00 a.m. I set off into the worst of it. Due to the prolonged rains, the burns were in spate. (That’s local talk for the creeks were overflowing.) No novice to stormy weather, I knew that all the wet ground made for dangerous walking. Landslides and rockfall were imminent, but like all great explorers I scoffed at the danger.


Landslide danger


I lost count of the number of swollen creeks I had to cross, but was pleasantly surprised that the Scottish authorities had courteously built a footbridge over every single one so I wouldn’t get my feet wet. I wonder how they knew I was coming. Perhaps King Arthur told them. It’s nice having friends in high places.











© 2011 Ken Klug

Day 70, Tuesday, August 9, 2011 – Inverarnan to Tyndrum, 14 miles

Today’s walk left the lowlands of Loch Lomond and started the ascent into the Scottish Highlands. The highlands aren’t very high by North American standards – the highest peak in Great Britain is barely 4,000 feet above sea level. But they are very far north, and so get severe winter weather where only the hardiest can survive. As a result Scotland is much wilder than England – and I’m not just talking about the football fans. When you enter into the highlands, you get a feel of the remote wilderness, notwithstanding that you are only a few miles from civilization. Again, I’m not talking about the football fans.

Wild Scotland is also beautiful. Again, I’m not… well, you get the idea.

Frank, Frank, Phil and Martin

Today was dry, sunny and cool. Still smarting about being passed by Phil yesterday, I had to stop to remove my long sleeve shirt shortly after leaving Inverarnan.  Don't you know, Phil, both Franks, and Martin passed me at that very point.  Honestly, I really had to stop to remove my shirt – I’m not just using that as an excuse for being passed. I knew I would catch up with them soon, and about 2 hours later, I did – as they were packing up to leave after a morning tea break. I also used the same location for a break. I never did catch up with them again, but I suspect they were probably hiding in the bushes as I went by, not wanting to admit that I could catch them.

I passed a few other walkers, all of whom had huge packs with camping gear, so maybe that doesn’t count.

Peggy and Margaret

About two miles from Tyndrum I passed two other walkers who weren’t even carrying backpacks. We were still on an ascending trail to Tyndrum, and I was about ready to blow past them when I stopped to talk. Peggy and Margaret, mother and daughter, were out for a short walk to Tyndrum. We had a nice chat, but when I started again, I left them in my dust on the steep, rocky trail. In fact, I was so far ahead of them that I arrived at my B&B before it opened, then went to an outside cafeteria where I was enjoying a beer as Peggy and Margaret walked by. If any of you had any doubt about my superb hiking ability, that fete alone should set you straight.  Oh, did I mention that Peggy is 90?

© 2011 Ken Klug

Day 69, Monday, August 8, 2011 – Rowardennan to Inverarnan – 14 miles

Becky, Elliot, Anne and Neal

I’m not sure what was in our breakfast today, but upon departure, three of the guests did a farewell jig while host Neal played the bagpipes. Well, OK, Neal wasn’t exactly playing bagpipes, and he wasn’t wearing a kilt, but he certainly was playing a Scottish jig. Or maybe it was an Irish jig. In any event it was a jig, I think... well, it sounded as if it had Celtic origins. Your reporter is terribly deficient about Celtic music – a three month journey to Scotland next summer might just set me straight. All in favor, say aye!!

Loch Lomond

I’m not quite done with this summer’s three month journey, though. Today’s walk was along the east coast of Loch Lomond. Dry weather, with patches of sunlight made the scenery come alive.

One might think the walking would be easy alongside the loch, but not so. The valley in which the loch lies was carved by a glacier, and has the characteristic U-shaped terrain. The loch fills up most of the U’s wide base, leaving steep sides on which the trail was built. As a result, the trail undulates over rocky rubble left when the glacier melted. Exposed tree roots combined with slippery wet rocks (remember yesterday’s rain?) made the footing difficult and the walking slow. That’s not necessarily bad, because the enforced slow pace provided time to enjoy the scenery – as long as I didn’t try to enjoy the scenery while taking a step, because even a slight slip could plunge me into the loch. In any case, I didn’t slip, I didn’t plunge, and I did enjoy the scenery.

Stuart and Kim

As I left Rowardennan, I was hailed by Stuart and Kim, two walkers I met yesterday just before Rowardennan. We chatted for a while, but poor Stuart was carrying a tent and other camping gear that made my pack seem like it was filled with helium. With all that weight he couldn’t keep up with me, so I said good-bye and moved along at my speed. I’ll probably be seeing them again over the next few days.

Shortly before reaching Inverarnan, I was overtaken by another walker, who seemed to be about my age. It’s been a long time since somebody passed me when I wasn’t taking pictures or otherwise dawdling. So I sped up to find out how much weight he was carrying. Phil is a Scotsman, from near Glasgow, and was carrying about half the weight I was. Satisfied that I wasn’t fading, I let Phil proceed at his own pace.

Phil, Frank, Martin and Frank

I was staying at the Drovers' Inn, a hotel that has been operating since 1705.  At dinner, I ordered a drink, and while looking for a table someone commented that I move as slowly carrying a beer as when carrying a pack. It was Phil, and I joined him at his table. Along with Phil were Frank, Martin and Frank no. 2, all of whom were walking the WHW. We had a nice dinner together, oddly enough at the very same table that Janet, Cathy, Keith and I ate at when we walked the WHW.

Musicians

Then the music started. The musicians were fun, and may have been the same age as the hotel guests -- all of the guests together.  I heard one of the musicians say that they played at the hotel on opening night. 

The Drovers’ Inn is certainly the place to be in Inverarnan. I’m not exactly sure that this counts towards my developing a knowledge of Celtic music, but we all had a good time – especially since the others kept plying me with whiskey. I hope I can walk tomorrow.

© 2011 Ken Klug

Day 68, Sunday, August 7, 2011 – Drymen to Rowardennan, 12 miles

Home restored from
former mill in
Milton of Buchanan

I had dinner last night with Gary and Sharon, whom I met on the trail yesterday as we walked to Drymen. I expected to see them on the trail today, but oddly enough I saw nobody heading north. I passed a few dog walkers who were heading south, as well as a lone man and a lone woman who were obviously walking the WHW. Strangely neither of them was a “trail person” who would stop to chat.

The man was climbing uphill at a good pace when I greeted him and stepped off the trail to allow him to proceed. My experience is that people going uphill will take any excuse to stop and rest, even if it means talking to someone they don’t know. This man was an exception – he just kept chugging along and muttered something that sounded like “good morning.” OK, I’ll give him the benefit of the doubt and assume that he just didn’t want to break stride.

Loch Lomond

The lady I met twenty minutes later also kept moving. “Good morning,” I said. She responded with a “Good morning.” “Have you walked far?” I queried. “Yes, but it’s a beautiful trail,” she said with an American accent as she walked right past me. Hmmm, maybe she’s traveling alone and has trained herself not to talk with strange men on the trail. I wouldn’t blame her – I must look pretty strange on my 68th day. Or maybe she’s been following my blog and didn’t want her picture taken because she’s called in sick every day for the past two weeks. Or maybe I no longer have that innocent, lost puppy look that I had when I started – it’s pretty hard to look lost on the West Highland Way.

In any event, I’ll keep on trying to report on the people I meet. Absent interesting people, I’ll keep posting pictures of interesting scenery.

Today’s scenery was remarkably good, but it rained again all day, so the colors were muted. The rain wasn’t hard, though – mostly drizzles and sprinkles – so I wasn’t wet or uncomfortable. Generally, it was a very pleasant day for walking, and I wore my Gore-Tex jacket only for protection in the event of a downpour which never occurred. The walk followed Loch Lomond, as it will tomorrow. With any luck at all, I’ll get some sunshine so tomorrow’s pictures will have brighter colors.

Don't forget to double-click on any picture you want enlarged.


© 2011 Ken Klug