Day 49 – Tuesday, July 19, 2011 – Keld to Bowes, 12 miles

Keith

Keith, a local game keeper for the Miller Estate, offered to drive me to Keld this morning. Not only didn’t I have to repeat the three miles I had walked yesterday, but I saved over an hour of time. Keith’s offer is one more example of Brits helping me along on my walk. As a result, Alec, James and I all started together from Keld.

Kisdon Force

Today was the first day in a long time we didn’t have any rain. There were heavy clouds overhead, and we were threatened with rain several times, enough to cause us to don our rain jackets, but the rain never materialized.

Our route took us up over Stonesdale Moor in a continuous ascent until we reached Tan Hill, Britain’s highest inn. Erik had stayed there last night, and we missed him by about 20 minutes today, as the innkeeper drove him to a train station. Beyond Tan Hill, the moor is reputed to be very wet and boggy, even on dry days. Knowing that following the Pennine Way through that area today would be very unpleasant, we opted to follow the road for a short distance to a track that avoided the boggiest part and joined the Pennine Way later on.

Proceeding down the track, we came upon more than two dozen parked cars. Because we weren’t in California, we knew it wasn’t a major drug deal, but the reason for so many cars parked in the middle of nowhere was perplexing.

Naturally, we asked the first person we came upon. Again, we weren’t California, so he didn’t shoot us. In fact, all of those folks had been out training their hunting dogs. Unfortunately, we arrived too late for the show, but the object of their training is for the dogs to stealthily move through the heather, and then point to a grouse. When the hunter gives the signal, the dog is supposed to flush the grouse, whereupon the hunter tries to shoot it. Hunting season doesn’t start until August 12, so thankfully there was no shooting going on – because we would have been in the line of fire.. Still, it would have been fun watching the dogs go through their lessons.



Bowes castle

At a fork in the trail, Alec had to leave us to conduct some personal business in Kendal, and James and I continued to Bowes. Tomorrow, James and I will walk together to Middleton-in-Teesdale, where George and Ann will pick me up. I’m really looking forward to seeing them again.



A sign can't deter me



© 2011 Ken Klug

Day 48 – Monday, July 18, 2011, Hawes to Keld – 14 miles

It was warm and dry when I awoke, but that was inside the hotel. Outside, the sky was overcast with low clouds. Today’s route started with a three-hour ascent of the Great Shunner Fell – into the very clouds which caused the overcast below. The recent rains had covered portions of the trail with puddles three or more inches deep. Navigating around the puddles increased the risk of sinking in a bog.

Holding Erik's note at Shunner Fell Summit

At the summit, an X-shaped wall with benches had been constructed to provide a windbreak on cold, windy, wet days like today, and James, Alec and I hunkered down there for lunch. Halfway through lunch, I discovered a note Erik had placed under a stone about an hour earlier:           

“Well, guys, wasn’t that fun going uphill. The mist closing in at one moment, spooky. Thought I might see you in the tearoom in Thwaite.



Shunner Fell summit cairn

                                   Erik”

The descent was somewhat less taxing, primarily because the boggiest areas were paved by flagstones, but also because the ridge we had crossed now shielded us from the worst of the wind and rain. The clouds dissipated, and Swaledale opened up below us.

Upon reaching Thwaite, we stopped for coffee at the tea room where Erik was still waiting. It was only 2:00, and the sun was now shining – the first time in days.  I was staying in Thwaite, but James and Alec were staying in Keld – three miles farther. Erik was staying at Tan Hill – four miles beyond Keld. I had initially discussed plans with James for me to meet him and Alec at Keld tomorrow, and for all three of us to continue to Bowes – twelve miles from Keld. But today was such a beautiful afternoon, I had a better idea.

View towards Thwaite

I checked into my room, dropped my pack and joined the others for the three mile walk to Keld on the Pennine Way. Upon reaching Keld, we said our final goodbyes to Erik. Then I walked back to Thwaite, by a different, more direct, route. My additional five miles today without a pack will be rewarded tomorrow, but only if I can find somebody to drive me to Keld in the morning. There is no taxi or bus service.

Walk to Keld

Even if I have to walk those three miles again, walking the five miles in sunny weather without a pack was a real treat. Maybe I’m getting soft, but I like walking without a pack.






SOLUTION TO NAME THE CAR PUZZLE:

Thanks to those who offered answers to the name the car puzzle. I’m not going to divulge the answer, but you can find out yourself by double clicking on the picture of the car and opening it in a separate window. Then you can enlarge the picture. The answer appears above the car’s radiator. Is that what you did, Larry?

© 2011 Ken Klug

Day 47, Sunday, July 17, 2011 – Horton in Ribblesdale to Hawes – 13 miles

As we did yesterday, Erik, James, Alec and I set off in the rain and wind again at 9:15. There were many other walkers departing at the same time, doing what they call “the three peaks challenge.” I’m beginning to wonder about the sanity of the British. It had rained the entire night, and was still raining in the morning, yet there were many Brits going out to walk in what they knew to be wet and muddy conditions, where rocks would be slippery and fording streams would be difficult. Unlike the four of us, most of the others didn’t really have to go out in that weather. I can’t generalize about the Dutch or Australians, but aside from a few a few folks of questionable sanity in southern Utah, no American would be out on a day like this. That’s what shopping malls and TVs were made for. But the Brits seem to be oblivious to the weather – which is odd considering that they spend more time talking about the weather and listening to daily forecasts than any other people in the world. They listen to the forecast – and then go right outdoors into the very teeth of a storm. Strange people, indeed.

Raging stream falling into pothole

But the four of us had no choice but to venture into the teeth of the storm. I spent much of the day reflecting on how much more uncomfortable the conditions would have been had I been walking alone rather than with others. 

We are still in limestone country, and there are deep caverns under ground.  We came across two raging streams which tumbled into limestone potholes, with no visible indication of where they might emerge again.  Woe to the sheep or person unlucky enough to be swept into a pothole by the current.

The forecast is for better weather on Monday. I’ll bet most Brits will probably stay indoors. Strange people, indeed.

Alec, James, Lost-a-lot, and Erik at day's end

© 2011 Ken Klug

Day 46, Saturday, July 16, 2011 – Malham to Horton in Ribblesdale – 15 miles

The rain which started last night was still falling this morning. In the true spirit of misery loves company, James suggested that he, Erik and I walk together from Malham to Horton in Ribblesdale. The three of us set off together at 9:15, and we were barely out of Malham before we were joined by Alec, an Australian. The four of us walked together almost the entire day.

The four of us not only provided companionship to each other, we also provided an extra level of safety for our walk in a remote area under difficult weather conditions. In many places the footing was bad, and the rain and high winds presented the risk of hypothermia. Shortly after leaving Malham, we arrived at Malham Cove, a limestone amphitheater from which Malham Beck (creek) flows. A short climb took us to the top of the amphitheater, where the limestone has eroded into slippery blocks, and where a slip would have easily resulted in a broken leg or arm. No strangers to danger, the four of us confidently stepped from one block to the next, until we traversed the entire field. Then suddenly from the hillside above, we heard a loud noise – a bull on the hillside had apparently slipped on the limestone, and was rolling over and over as he fell down the hill. I can’t imagine how he didn’t break a leg or his neck, but he immediately got to his feet, and stood frozen, obviously dazed from the fall. High above him stood another bull, so I can’t help but wonder whether they had been engaged in a battle which caused the fall. In any event, I was no longer so confident crossing over the wet limestone, especially since I have only two legs for stability.

In the barn
photo by Erik

The wind-driven rain continued to pelt us, and by mid-day, we were all getting uncomfortably cold. After descending off the moor, we came upon an old barn. Collectively we decided to unlatch the door and go inside for shelter, trespass laws notwithstanding. Alec had a stove, so he boiled water for hot drinks. Each of us added another layer under our waterproofs for warmth, something which would have been difficult outside in the high winds and rain. After a quick lunch, we were warm enough to venture outside again, being careful to remove our trash and restore the barn as it was. Removing evidence of our trespass might prevent the owner from securing the barn to exclude future walkers in need.



Penyghent



The path headed back up the high moor to Penyghent, one of the three high peaks in the area. We had all decided to bypass Penyghent due to the weather, but as we approached it short periods of sunshine peeked through the clouds and the mist on top of the mountain cleared. Erik and Alec decided to climb to the top. James and I decided to stay with our original decision and head straight down to town. My feet were wet, cold and numb, and I was concerned that continuing on might risk a blister. My objective is John O’Groats, not Penyghent, and it would be foolish to risk that objective by developing a blister for a non-consequential side-trip.

As James and I descended, clouds came and again covered Penyghent.

Not so drystone wall

I checked into my accommodation and took a hot shower to warm up. About an hour later, Alec and Erik appeared, pleased that they had continued on, but reporting that the weather on top continued to be as bad as it looked like from below. For James and me, though, coming off the mountain and warming up was the right decision.

The four of us will walk together tomorrow to Hawes.

View across Fountains Fell

© 2011 Ken Klug

Day 45 – Cowling to Malham – 19 miles

I’ve arrived in the Yorkshire Dales, an area in middle England characterized by beautiful rolling hills and more greenery than you can imagine. Drystone walls are everywhere, and beautifully arched stone bridges cross the many wooded streams. This is a delightful area, and the walking is easy.

Pete and I walked together most of the day until he reached his destination of Gargreave, 12 miles from Cowling.
The day had started out quite warm, and got progressively warmer. The map showed that our route would take us through several villages, so I decided to reduce the weight of my pack by cutting down on the quantity of water I carried. As the day wore on and the temperature rose, I became increasingly concerned that I may not have enough water.

The first village we reached was Lothersdale. It was still too early for the pub to be open, and the village had no market. I still had sufficient water to get me to the next village, so I was OK. Ironically, Lothersdale may not have had sufficient water.

Rob

On a small hill above Lothersdale, Pete and I encountered Rob, who was repairing piping from the spring, the village’s source of water. One man, working with his hands and a shovel was restoring water service to the village. I tried to contemplate how many men, machines, work orders, and reports would be required to restore interrupted water service to my hometown.

The next town Pete and I passed through was Thornton-in-Craven. It appeared to be of reasonable size and prosperity, with expensive homes, but not one pub or market to buy a drink. The day was getting hotter, and my water supply was diminishing.

After another mile and a half, we reached the tiny village of East Marton. East Marton sits alongside the Leeds and Liverpool Canal, another route for vacationing narrowboaters. We found a small café, where I quickly downed two soft drinks. My remaining water would now get me to Gargreave, where I would definitely find a convenience store.

At Gargreave, I bought two sport drinks, and drank one immediately as Pete and I sat in a shady park to get out of the sun. I held one drink in reserve, to get me the seven more miles to Malham. Pete and I said our goodbyes, and I left for Malham. He and I will both be walking the rest of the Pennine Way over the next two weeks, but we are unlikely to see each other, as I will be about a half-day ahead of him. 

On the moor

As I was leaving Gargreave to walk the additional 7 miles to Malham, I was waved down by James, who was just finishing tea in Gargreave. James, too, was walking to Malham, and he and I walked there together.  Now that I was no longer concerned about water, the weather gods changed the rules. The sky clouded over and the temperature dropped as James and I left Gargreave. When we got within a mile of Malham, a heavy downpour was imminent. Once again, I was concerned about water, but for a very different reason. James and I moved along swiftly and we arrived in Malham only minutes before the rain started.

The forecast is for heavy rains tomorrow, but at least for tonight my clothes will be dry.


© 2011 Ken Klug

Day 44 – Thursday, July 14, 2011 – Badger Fields Farm to Cowling – 16 miles

Garden flowers

The spring flowers in the pastures are just about dried up. The clover is still blooming, the fox glove is working its way to the top, and there is still an occasional daisy. Other than that, most of the flowers are gone – except in the gardens. I keep passing many beautiful gardens, evidence that England has a flower-friendly climate – not like the parching heat of southern Utah or central California. It would be hard not to grow beautiful flowers in England. Why, I’ll bet that most of the beautiful gardens I’ve seen require no more than three or four hours of daily maintenance, and maybe only a full Saturday every other week or so.

Fixer upper

What is required in England, though, is home maintenance. There are many buildings here that are no longer habitable. In America, those buildings would be torn down to make room for a publicly financed stadium. But here in England, the buildings are left to deteriorate until some wealthy celebrity acquires and restores them. Eventually that happens, and the building is once again put to productive use – notwithstanding that it was built in 1538, and the doorways are only 4½ feet high. People were shorter in 1538.

Withins ruins

Today’s walk on the Pennine Way weaved through a terrain of high moorlands and drystone fenced pastures, in an area commonly referred to as Bronte Country, because the sisters Bronte lived here and wrote about the area.  The Pennine Way passes the ruins of the Withins, erroneosly thought by many to be the setting for "Wuthering Heights." 

The Bronte society finally placed a plaque on the building to disspel the notion.

Peter

You will recall that I met Peter yesterday at the Stoodley Pike monument.  We met on the trail again today, and we walked together  the rest of the day. Peter walked the Pennine Way 50 years ago when he was 15, and is re-walking it as part of a 50 year celebration. As we chatted, we discovered a number of interesting coincidences. He lives in a village not very far from where my good friends Dr. George and Lady Ann live. He is a scuba diver, and was diving in Truk, Yap, and Palau in 1992 – at the same time Janet and I were there. He’s also dived the shipwrecks at Scapa Flow in the Orkney Islands – the very same place where Janet and I bought T-shirts that said we dived Scapa Flow. And the biggest coincidence is that he and I are staying tonight at the same B&B. Wouldn’t it be another coincidence if we ate dinner tonight at the same pub? Or even at the same table?


© 2011 Ken Klug

Wednesday, July 13, 2011 -- Day 43 – Bleak Hey Nook to Badger Fields Farm (on a high ridge NW of Hebden Bridge) – 18 miles

Upon asking the proprietor of the B&B about the derivation of the name Bleak Hey Nook, he stated that bleak was historically the spelling of the word black. Over time, the meaning of bleak has evolved to mean dark or foreboding. So although the area was not bleak, as we know it, as a color the word describes the surrounding rocks and heather. Indeed, the peat, and the water flowing through it, could be black in color.

Last night’s dinner and today’s breakfast were in the company of two very nice couples, ¾ of which were retired secondary school teachers. They are avid walkers, and are in the throes of completing the Pennine Way, north to south. I am walking in the opposite direction, so we bade our good-byes after breakfast, and I headed off.

Finally on the Pennine Way

Shortly after climbing a steep hill to join the Pennine Way, I encountered James, who is also walking the PW south to north. We chatted a while, and finally set off on our own individual paces, passing each other several times during the day. Also walking in my direction were three ladies, Jan, Jenny and Elaine, who happen to be staying at the same B&B tonight as I am. I also encountered Erik, from the Netherlands, Steve and Peter, both Brits. All of us kept passing and re-passing each other all day, as our paces differed and our breaks/lunch times differed. I suspect that the ebb and flow will continue over the next few days as we are all headed in the same direction. This is a phenomenon which I had not previously experienced on either the Southwest Coast Path or Offa’s Dyke.

Today’s route generally followed a well-signed track over the high moorlands. In boggy places, flagstone has been laid both to improve the footing and reduce the erosion from the foot traffic.


Master chef Brian



At one point the path crossed the busy A640 highway where Brian has set up his cooking trailer and serves coffee and meals to truckers. In California, we would refer to the concession as a “roach wagon,” but Brian’s set-up is spotlessly clean. That his food is good is evidenced by the repeat customers who stop. I failed to ask Brian how long he has been serving food at that place, but I think he’s become a fixture. Had I not just had breakfast, his bacon sandwich looked superb.

Name this car

Does anybody recognize the make and year of the restored vehicle parked near Brian’s trailer?  I know it's not a 1972 VW bus.

Steve and Eric near Stoodley Pike

At Stoodley Pike, a point which towers over the village of Hebden Bridge, a huge monument was built to commemorate the victory over Napoleon at Waterloo. While it is possible to climb the tower to the top, there is no lighting, and none of our party chose to risk a fall on the dark, circular staircase.

I was supposed to have ordered dinner at our B&B, but I neglected to do so. Fortunately for me, the three ladies who are also staying here did order dinner, so it was no problem for Miriam, the hostess, to cook one extra meal. The same thing happened yesterday at Bleak Hey Nook, where I had not ordered dinner, but my companions had. I’m glad that the Brits are looking after my nutrition, because if it were left to me, I would end up with bread and jam. Just in case Dr. George and Lady Ann are reading this, please be advised that I would like dinner. Oh, and for the full cooked breakfast, I don’t take black pudding or fried bread.

No WiFi tonight, so this won’t get posted until some future date.

Would you eat this guy?

© 2011 Ken Klug